Fifty-seven years ago, in the middle of the 1956 Revolution, a twenty year old József fled Hungary. Originally from Herend, a small town near the city of Veszprém most famous for its porcelain manufacturing, József spent some of his youth painting porcelain. However, after the Revolution and his move to Montreal, József’s specialty changed; he worked for a few years at a butcher’s on Coloniale Street, before opening his own place in 1968. Charcuterie Fairmount was initially home to specific clientele, mostly from Hungary and Germany, but today many people of different nationalities enjoy visiting the Hungarian butcher every day.
While József was answering our questions, we were astounded by the array of nationalities that came and went, from Japanese fathers asking for steak, to Quebecois families preordering turkey for Thanksgiving, and finally to Europeans couples purchasing Szeged Hungarian Salami.
While we were watching József’s everyday routine, his brother-in-law brought us some warm Toportyu (poultry skin cracklings), which was quickly followed by his wife sneaking us some of the Szeged salami as we hid behind the counter.
If you want to cook yourself a nice meal while still sticking to a student budget, Charcuterie Fairmount gives you many possibilities. If you want to have an aperitivo, buy some Debreceni (porc sausage spiced with paprika) accompanied by Sajtos Pogácsa (cheese puffs). If you’re eager for new recipes, try out some of József’s favourite meals: Gulyás with Zsemlye Gomboc. (meat soup with bread dumplings), Pörkölt (meat stew), or Töltött káposzta (stuffed cabbage) - ideal for late autumn and winter meals.
WRITTEN BY SOPHIE AUFFRET & CARLA MAVADDAT
PHOTOS BY SOPHIE AUFFRET & CARLA MAVADDAT